Standing Single and Double Crochet.

Use a small finished or fastened-off sample so the previous yarn is not still attached at the starting point. Choose a row with at least seven clear stitch tops. For right-handed practice, start at the right-hand end; for left-handed practice, start at the left. Mark that first top V.

Make a slip knot with the new yarn and place its loop on the hook. Leave a tail long enough to handle and weave in later. The knot loop should move along the shaft; it should not clamp onto the narrow throat.

This method uses a new yarn supply. Beginning another row with the yarn still attached is a different situation and may call for a turning chain or a separately defined chainless beginning stitch.

1. With the slip-knot loop on the hook, insert under both top loops of the marked stitch.
2. Yarn over and draw a new loop through the stitch. There are two working loops on the hook.
3. Yarn over and draw through both loops.

You have made one standing single crochet. The slip-knot loop was part of making that stitch; it is not an extra counted chain or a second stitch.

Move the marker to the completed top if you need help finding it again. Continue with ordinary single crochet in the next unused base, unless the pattern specifies an increase, corner or another placement.

Use another clear starting position or undo the previous practice attempt. Begin again with a slip knot from the new yarn on the hook.

1. Yarn over once before inserting. Keep the loop and yarn over controlled on the shaft.
2. Insert under both top loops of the designated stitch.
3. Yarn over and draw up a loop. Three loops are now on the hook.
4. Yarn over and draw through two loops, leaving two.
5. Yarn over and draw through the final two loops.

You have completed one standing double crochet. Do not add chain three before it, and do not count the starting knot as another stitch.

Work the full double crochet with the new yarn; extra chains after a single crochet do not make a double crochet.

For a short practice row, begin with one standing stitch in the first of seven available stitches, then work six ordinary stitches of the same type in the remaining stitches. You should have seven stitches, including the standing stitch at the beginning.

Do not also work into the first stitch beneath the standing stitch unless you intend an increase. If your row has eight tops, check for that extra stitch before blaming the knot or starting chain.

The single crochet and double crochet lessons explain the ordinary stitch movements separately.

In a joined round, the standing stitch may become the first actual stitch that receives the finishing join. Mark its completed top while it is still easy to recognise.

If you replaced a beginning chain with a standing stitch, check the pattern's guidance for where to join. The target for an invisible finish may differ.

If the standing stitch is worked into a chain space, the space is where you work it. Any additional stitches in the same space still follow the corner or group instructions; the standing stitch does not create permission to omit or add one.

Hold the new yarn gently for the first few stitches so the starting loop does not loosen. Once there is enough fabric to handle, inspect the knot, the top V and the tail from both faces.

The standing stitch does not remove the need to secure the tail. Leave it accessible until the stitch count and placement are checked, then finish it in a way suited to the yarn and fabric. Our finishing lesson gives related context, and the glossary helps you interpret the pattern's chosen starting method.